History
Leather tanning is without doubt one
of the oldest human activities. In the beginning, skins obtained
from the hunt and livestock breeding could be used for clothing
or for tents, but they became stiff at low temperatures, while
they rotted with heat. It was probably then that attempts
were made to render them more flexible and stronger by rubbing
in animal fats, the first rudimental tanning process mentioned
in Assyrian texts and in Homers Ilaid. Another process
was smoking, which almost certainly started by accident, and
which later became formaldehyde tanning, as this substance
is found in the vapours produced by burning green leaves and
branches. It was soon discovered too that the rotting process
could also be stopped by drying, carried out by exposure to
the sun or by dehydrating action of salt. Vegetable tanning
was also known in very ancient times though t is not clear
how the tanning action of the tannin contained in the bark
of some plants (especially oak ) was discovered. Another method
known since the earliest times is tawing, based on the use
of alum, a mineral which is fairly widespread in nature, particularly
in volcanic areas.
These methods, which gradually become more
redefined and efficient, allowed skins to be used in the
ancient world and continued to do so for century up to the
present day. That the use of these techniques was widespread
is witnessed by numerous written documents and paintings
as well as archeological finds. In Mesopotamia in the period
between the fifth and third millennium B.C., for example,
the Sumerians used skins for long dresses and diadems for
the ladies. The Assyrians used leather for footwear but
also liquid containers and, inflated, as floats for rafts.
And ti was the ancient Indian civilization which first processed
leather of the type known as "Morocco" today.
The Egyptians also achieved considerable
skill in processing leather which they used for clothing
(even for gloves ), for tools, for arms or simply for ornament.
The historian, Strabo, tells of an interesting use developed
by Phoenicians who, he says, made water pipes from it. During
Roman times, leather was widely used in all the provinces
of the Empire, and more efficient tanning techniques were
introduced where they had not been developed locally. That
skill in leather tanning was not a prerogative of the western
world is recounted by Marco Polo. In his "Travels",
he tells us that the Mongols used leather flasks, covers,
masks and caps, decorated artistically, and it was he who
coined the expression "Russia leather" to indicate
a type with a characteristic fragrance. A considerable improvement
in processing techniques occurred in the 12th century with
the result that between then and the last century, there
were no substantial changes to tanning systems. Even oil
tanning was used to produce protective garments while tawing
was widespread though the result were not always satisfactory.
Often, furthermore, finishing operations were carried out
to improve the malleability of the leather and improve its
appearance, especially by dyeing.
The products, though essentially practical,
also met decorative requirements. In the fourteenth century,
for instance, leather was being used in combination with
wood in chairs, arm-chairs and settles with craftsmanship
that reached the levels of an art-form. This was also the
case later on with tapestries(especially in Venice in the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries ), with chests and cases
and, of course, with book bindings, perhaps the most lasting
and redefined use of the material. Going back to tanning
techniques, it was more or less in the Middle Ages that
the depilating action of quick lime was discovered, a technique
which is still valid and normally used. A radical shake-up
was provided in the middle of the last century with the
discovery of the tanning power of chrome salts which led
to a drastic improvement in production and was applied in
practice in industrial production towards the end of the
century.
Another revolutionary element was
the substitution of the tanning pit with the rotating drum,
together with the discovery of new types of tannins. As
a result of all these innovations, the time required for
tanning was shortened incredibly from the eight months to
a year it use to be to a period of a few days today. But
let us take a step back again to have a look at the systems
and tools that were once used to work leather. We immediately
discover that from Paleolithic times almost to the present
day, the processes and tools remained almost unchanged,
gaining only in efficiency and comfort.Similar tools for
fleshing, scraping, shaving, perching and trimming are found
in practically every epoch known to us. This is a further
demonstration of the fact that tanning has gone hand in
hand with the history of mankind, maintaining those features
of "craftmanship" which even today with increasing
automation are an essential part of the personal sensibility
and 0solid experience of those who carry it on.
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